Seafood Stew in Santa Catarina: Where to Find Cazuela de Mariscos

Cazuela Culture on the Santa Catarina Coast

Cazuela de mariscos is a Spanish and Latin American seafood stew, and in Santa Catarina it shows up in coastal restaurants that blend Brazilian, Portuguese and Argentine influences. Along the Laguna coast, cooks simmer shrimp, mussels and fish in clay pots with tomato, onion and bell pepper, often adding coconut milk for an Afro-Brazilian accent. In Florianópolis, the island capital, the dish appears on menus in Lagoa da Conceição and Barra da Lagoa, where seafood is landed daily. You will pay between R$60 and R$120 per person for a proper cazuela, depending on the catch and the neighbourhood.

The best months for a seafood-focused trip are May through August, when the water is cooler and shellfish are at their sweetest. That is also low season for beach tourism, so hotel rates in Florianópolis drop by 30 to 40 per cent compared to January and February. If your priority is eating well without the summer crowds, plan a long weekend in June or July. Hotel bookings in the city centre and along the northern beaches of Canasvieiras and Jurerê are easier to secure, and you can drive to the lagoon in 25 to 35 minutes.

Florianópolis: Lagoa da Conceição and Barra da Lagoa

Lagoa da Conceição is the island's food heart. Rua das Rendeiras curves along the lagoon's eastern shore, and several restaurants here serve cazuela de mariscos with a view of the water and the hills of Rio Vermelho. The dish usually arrives bubbling in a clay pot, with rice, farofa and pirão on the side. Expect to pay R$85 to R$130 for two people. From the city centre, take bus line 320 to Lagoa da Conceição; the ride takes about 30 minutes. Driving from the Hercílio Luz airport takes 40 minutes outside rush hour.

Barra da Lagoa, a fishing village on the east coast, offers a simpler version. At the canal mouth, family-run kitchens use whatever comes off the boats that morning — often mullet, shrimp and squid. A bowl costs R$50 to R$80 per person. The trade-off is atmosphere: Barra is quieter, with fewer hotel options. I would book a hotel in Lagoa da Conceição for a two-night stay, because you can walk to dinner and still reach the beaches of Joaquina and Mole by car in 15 minutes. Skip the overpriced waterfront spots on Avenida Beira-Mar Norte; the cazuela there is often an afterthought.

Laguna and Garopaba: Smaller Towns, Honest Cooking

South of Florianópolis, Laguna is a historic town where the seafood stew reflects Azorean roots. In the old centre near Praça República Juliana, restaurants serve cazuela with local shrimp and a broth thickened with cassava. Prices run R$55 to R$90. From Florianópolis, the drive on BR-101 takes about 1 hour 45 minutes. Laguna makes a good overnight stop if you are travelling between the capital and the southern beaches of Farol de Santa Marta. Hotels near the lagoon are limited but comfortable, and you can find rooms for R$180 to R$280 per night in the shoulder months.

Garopaba, 75 kilometres south of Florianópolis, is a surf town with a growing food scene. The cazuela here often includes mussels from local farms and comes with a pepper sauce on the side. Expect R$65 to R$100 per person. The best spots are a block back from Praia da Ferrugem, where you avoid the beachfront markup. I would book a hotel in Garopaba for a relaxed three-night stay if you want to combine surfing with seafood. The drive from Florianópolis airport is about 1 hour 15 minutes via BR-101 and SC-434. In winter, some restaurants close midweek, so call ahead.

What to Order and What to Skip

A proper cazuela de mariscos should arrive in a clay pot, still bubbling, with a broth that tastes of the sea rather than just tomato. Ask what fish is fresh that day. In Florianópolis, look for the words 'frutos do mar' on the menu; it signals a mix of shellfish and fish. Avoid any version that lists only shrimp and costs less than R$45 — it is usually a small portion with frozen seafood. Pair the stew with a light white wine or a local beer. The dish is rich, so one cazuela is enough for two people if you add a salad.

If you are staying in a hotel with a kitchen, buy shrimp at the Mercado Público in Florianópolis and make your own version. A kilogram of medium shrimp costs R$40 to R$60. The market is open Monday to Saturday, and the fish counters are best before 10am. For a hotel-based trip, I would choose a property in Lagoa da Conceição or Centrinho da Lagoa, where you can walk to at least three restaurants serving cazuela. Skip the chain hotels on the mainland; you will spend more time in traffic than at the table.