Praia do Campeche

Praia do Campeche is the long, exposed beach on the south-east side of the island, backed by low dunes and vacation homes rather than towers. What makes it different from Joaquina or Mole is the view: Ilha do Campeche, a small green island one kilometre offshore, sits in the middle of everything you see. The island is a federally protected archaeological site with over a hundred rock inscriptions from indigenous peoples over 4,000 years old, and it's the reason Campeche is the beach most seriously interested in Brazilian pre-history and impact-conscious tourism at once.

On the mainland side, the visit is simple: pick a boardwalk (numbered 1 through 6), walk down, and stake out sand. The wave is real Atlantic surf and the water is a couple of degrees cooler than the north-shore beaches; kite-surfers set up at the south end near Morro das Pedras. To visit the island you walk to the boat point at the south end of the beach, pay the boatman R$100 for a return crossing, and pay a separate R$60 environmental fee on landing — daily visitors are capped at 800, so arrive by 09:30 in high season.

Best from October to April, with December offering the best chance of calm-enough seas for the island crossing. Book the island through a licensed operator (Turismo Ilha do Campeche) rather than a random boatman if you want a guided walk to the inscriptions — it costs R$180 and includes the fee. Rua Pequeno Principe behind the beach has the island's best neighbourhood restaurants (Aipim, Cafe Cultura); great for lunch after a morning swim.

Hours & entry

Free · Boat to Ilha do Campeche R$100 return · Island fee R$60

Beach open 24 h · Boats to island 9:00-16:00 · Kiosks 10:00-20:00

What to see

{'what': 'Guided walk to the rock inscriptions', 'where': 'Trilha da Praia do Sul, Ilha do Campeche'}

{'what': 'Sunset over the dunes', 'where': 'Boardwalk 5, south end of the beach'}

{'what': 'Kite-surf launch beach', 'where': 'South end below Morro das Pedras'}

Tips from the ground

The last boat back from Ilha do Campeche leaves at 16:30 — miss it and you sleep on a beach with no facilities.

The wave here dumps on shore; watch small children carefully or move to the calmer south end.

Rua Pequeno Principe has the coolest cafes and cheapest lunch on the island — worth walking away from the beach for.